Forêt Domaniale de l'Estérel

I found the most amazing hiking spot down the coast from Mandelieu at Forêt Domaniale de l'Estérel. This picturesque place is a treasure trove of natural beauty. There's a small island just off the main shore that has an ornate little castle on it. The beach is rocky, but the stones are big enough to make sitting on them comfortable. The mountain is high but the hike is not too steep, making it an enjoyable trek. There are so many nooks and crannies to explore in this place, perfect for anyone looking for a little hiking aventure.

Sunset on the peaks of the mountain overlooking the sea is the most stunning site I've found in France. It's a perfect place for a romantic picnic or fun with friends. Although it's farther down the coast from the bustling center cities of Nice, Monaco and Cannes; for me it is a must see.

Joyeux Noel!

Celebrating Christmas in France was a wonderfully delicious experience. Their traditions are pretty much the same as in the States; Christmas tree, nativity scenes, presents, family, and lots of food and drinks. But their cuisine is second to none and that's what makes their celebrations distinctly different.

We had a four course meal on Christmas Eve and another on Christmas day. Each time we started with whiskey drinks and an amazing aray of appetizers that were out of this world. I've now had foie gras two different ways. The second course consisted of sea-food; oyesters, shrimp and salmon. Then there's the elaborate main course, paired with red wine of course. The deserts are inevitably addictive. We had a type of crème brûlée, ice cream cake, chocolates and a yummy treat I've never seen before; nuts on an almond paste. Of course all paired with champagne. My mouth waters just thinking about it all. I felt like I should owe a hefty restaurant bill, I've never had such amazing home cooked food in my life! We were too full from dinner to make it to any midnight mass, so we enjoyed more desert and champagne by the fireplace instead. I could get used to Christmas in France. Bonne fête à tous!

French Faves and Fun Facts

I love absorbing little things about the French culture, and there are many. Here are some of my faves!

- No school on Wednesdays! Mothers don't work on Wednesdays so they can stay home with their kids.
- McDonald's France serves beer. I also love the Deluxe Potato option not available in the US.
- Vintage clothing store Free P Star has two awesome locations in Paris and you can find hip threads for as little as 1 euro. So many good finds, so little suitcase space...
- Gothic art and architecture was born in France and wonderful examples can be seen everywhere.
- Many English phrases originated from French. Now I finally know what à propos means!
(other examples: Déjà vu, RSVP=Répondez s'il vous plaît, Laissez-faire, and numerous cinematic terms of course: Film noir, Femme fatale, Avant garde, Cinéma vérité)
- There are over 1,000 different kinds of French cheese. Cheese for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks! Obviously goes great with the large wine selection.
- Chocolate is also a big thing for breakfast. Can't argue with that~
- Even as an American, you can go to the hospital and they won't charge you. The health care system is pretty sweet here, but citizens pay for it with taxes.
- A lot more French people speak more English than you'd think. If you try to speak a little French, they try to speak English. It's actually pretty adorable.
- The infamous French attitude is a mask to hide their sensitivity. This is from the mouth of a french girl, not me. But I find it to be true. At first it can be a turn off, but it's what I think the world loves about the French. It's that hidden vulnerability that makes them so irresistible.
- Of course their style is second to none. Even kids are trendy here. They generally have great taste.
- They love American culture as much as we love theirs. There are tons of American TV shows on, but they are all dubbed in French. My favorite is the Simpsons. 
- Many people think French people stink. Completely not true. The majority of perfumes are made here and they do use it. 

Not everything is so great here. Just to be fair, here are some things I don't like about France.
- The movie theaters are so small. And generally don't sell popcorn.
- Most stores close really early, especially on Sunday.
- The French postal system scares me. Too many strikes and not enough reliability.
-The customer is NOT always right. It can be hard to find good service and they don't want your tip. Okay, I'm on the fence about this one. It's their sensitive brooding side, remember? And I don't have to tip? That's a relief!

There are clearly more good things about France than bad, that's why it's the number one tourist destination. And there are hundreds of thousands of illegal immigrants here too. Don't look at me, I got a visa!

Mandelieu La Napoule

I've been living in Mandelieu, a little town just south of Cannes on the French Riviera. I've been enjoying the peace and quiet that the town brings. Almost everyday I take a walk down a cute little path near my apartment that leads to the Mediterranean Sea. Although it's winter, the sun still shines and I love exploring the nature in my own backyard.

I love the birds that populate this path. They sing to each other and seem to dance in the wind.

Mandelieu is one of my favorite beaches because it is much less crowded than the rest of the coast. It's a sandy beach which is nice because many French beaches have rocks instead of soft sand. The water is so blue and inviting. This time of year it's great for quiet contemplation, there's not many people around except for some fisherman.

Mandelieu La Napoule is less popular than some of the other towns on the coast, but maybe that's what I like about it. It's untouched, still pure. Still clean and full of boundless nature~

Exploring the Côte d'Azur

Although I've been to the French Riveria many times and have now lived here for many months, I continue to find new places to explore. With endless towns to visit, I wonder if I'll ever see everything!

I started the day at Saint Jean Cap Ferrat, a little known place that is almost an island but just barely connects to the mainland. Watching the waves crash and roll onto the beautiful shore, I spied a lone fisherman with a friendly disposition. There is a narrow path that goes around the entire town and as I followed it, I found that each step made me more and more relaxed.

Before heading to the next town, I visited a little church on top of the hill. Although the church was nothing to see, there was an amazing sculpture that was taller than the building itself.

The next stop was Eze, a quant village that sparked my imagination of the years past. This town is built into a hilltop and I immediately fell in love with the cobblestone everywhere. The town has a very artsy and elegant vibe with unique caves of art, sweet cafes and amazing resorts like none other.

 This town was popular among some great people such as the Swiss royal family and Neitzsche himself. There is a street named after Neitzsche that is incredibly romantic in every sense of the word. He is said to have walked that way often, deep in thought.

As the sun was setting, there was an impromtu stop at Fort Boron. This place has an amazing energy, probably from all the people that gave their life protecting this amazing coast. I longed to go inside, but it appears that it is never open to the public. The outside is worth a look anyway.

What a wonderful day of exploring indeed~

Manchester for Free!

Very few things in life are free, so I was really surprised to visit Manchester and see all the freebies up for grabs. From Picadilly Station, there are free buses that take you all around the city center and China town. They run every ten minutes and take you to where the action is. I stopped first at the Town Hall, right in the heart of the city. The architecture was glamorous Gothic and the spirit of the city was strong.

 There was a winter wonderland of a Christmas market with stands of meats, cheeses, mulled wine and a variety of goods. Of course if you want to buy something it's gonna cost you, but there were free samples to try. I really enjoyed the Raclette cheese samples.

It's a bit cold in Manchester at the moment, so I headed indoors. There are many museums, all very close to each other, and they're all free! First I went to the Cornerhouse where they had a unique gallery full of abstraction and dislocation. Very artsy indeed. Then I stumbled upon the Manchester Museum which is a natural history museum of sorts. I was really intrigued by a bug exhibit and somewhat bored by the bird section. The mummies in the Egypt section were things I had seen before, but always like to see again. The Whitworth Art museum was my last stop. I really enjoyed some of the distinct pieces in the Shadows exhibit but did not like the Air Pressure film instillation. Nevertheless, the price was right! There's also the Museum of Science and Industry which is free, but I ran out of time to see it. So if you're looking for a place to visit and can't afford the pounds, Manchester is the place to do it.
For more information: visit http://www.visitmanchester.com/

Joan of Arc: Vieux-Marché in Rouen

I visited the site where Joan of Arc was burned for heresy at Vieux-Marché in Rouen.

It was a short stop on the way and unless you're a real history buff, I wouldn't say that this place is a must see on any France itinerary. Nevertheless, I was glad to see it. Joan of Arc is a symbol for following ones destiny. She was from a small village and rose to prominence when she was a teenager. She was just a simple, uneducated peasant. She had a divine calling that she filled without question. We must all find that purpose, that divine calling. Follow our feet and never look back. No matter what the cost.

Concert Review: Hanson in Paris

It's always good to get a taste of home when you're away so I was excited to see that Hanson was coming to Paris. The venue was right downstairs from where I stay so there was no way I was going to miss the show~

Fans were lined up at 6am! I think they slept there. I was happy to see that Hanson kept a following here, but I will never understand why, or how, people can be that die hard. I, on the other hand, peeked from my window all day and when the line was inside, I walked right in.

It felt like I was meeting an old friend. Hanson always seems to sing the soundtrack of my life. Early in the show "Been There Before" brought me back to the old days in Milwaukee.
On a block I live on in the place I'm from.
"Hey" shines light on all my years in Hollywood, a time and place I've had some distance from to gain new perspective on it. When I'm making my movie, you keep saying all my lines.
"Strong Enough to Break" resonates with the constant struggles of everyday life that I inevitably face, even in France! Just a figure in a big monopoly game. The struggle is the price you pay. You get just enough just to give it away.
They reminded me once again that fear has got to go "This Time Around."

They really show their range throughout the show by riding the waves of duality, feeling good with "Crazy Beautiful" while soon after addressing the stresses of keeping relationships strong in "Go." They ended on a bit of a shallow note with "In the City" but the Parisians seemed to really like it.

Throughout the show Hanson spoke entirely in English. I wondered how many people understood what they were saying because even when I speak French they try to act like they don't understand. Props to Issac for a few Merci Beaucoups. Taylor rocked the french flag at the end which was another nice little touch. The crowd was overall pretty hype and it was fun to see such an American band rocking Paris. Shout it Out!

For tickets to the Shout It Out Tour visit http://www.hanson.net/site/sections/22

Occupy Versailles

Versailles is a symbol of glory and opulence. The massive estate screams decadence, from the golden gates to the never ending gardens that make up the "back yard."

 As I walk through the labyrinths of the gardens, I imagine all the shady business deals and scandalous love affairs that must have occurred between the bushes, away from the eyes of the court. As you walk up the steps and look out on the property, you can't help but wish all of that was yours. That's the thing about opulence. The beauty of it is exclusivity. All of this for me and my own. I think about how the royals would turn in their graves to see all the "peasants" walking around their property.

As the sun sets, I imagine a scene when the 99% burst into Versailles to end the reign on the grandiose opulence of the 1%. To take such a marvelous place away from royalty and turn it into a place for the public is truly remarkable. I feel the duality of the situation. We all want the glorious castle for ourselves, but when is enough enough? Could the Occupy movement be the next French Revolution?

 We all crave beauty in our lives, but there's enough to go around for everyone~

How to Travel on a Budget

I've been traveling for the last seven months; France, India, the States, England, Italy and even more France. I'm not rich and I really haven't spent an exorbitant amount of money. So how do I do it? I've had a lot of help from my friends. I've very rarely stayed in hotels which saves more money than I can imagine. Shout out to Razvan, Shark, Julien, Kappa, Atmika, Kim, Annalis, Courtney, Randi, Claire, Marine, Paolo, Fabio and especially Ben. Without you all, this life-changing journey would not have been possible.

Don't have friends you can crash with? There's a website called CouchSurfing where you can hook up with people from all over the world who are willing to open their homes to you. Although I have never tried it, I have explored it a little and it seems very safe. You can choose whether you want to stay with males, females or both and many members are verified by people who have stayed with them. Hostels are another way to save money over hotels. Although you share a room with up to 13 other people, they are actually fun and secure. Read reviews before you book.

There are lots of other little ways to save money along the way. Discount airlines are great but make sure to read the baggage requirements or else you could end up getting charged hidden fees. Take the metro or bus to and from the airport instead of a taxi. Go grocery shopping as often as you can to save on restaurant bills. Your waistline will thank you as well. If you're going to be in a place for a while, get a local pay as you go phone to save on roaming charges. Avoid tourist traps by researching the place online first. Many attractions, such as museums, offer discounted rates on certain days or to students, etc. Get informed. Hanging with the locals is generally the best way to see a city and it will save you the expensive admission prices of overrated attractions that suck anyway. The most important travel tip ever: be open minded and you will be surprised where each day takes you: most likely without spending a lot of money. 

How to do an Absinth Shot

I recently got schooled on the proper way to do an Absinth shot and I'm excited to pull out this new fun trick at a party someday. It took some trial and error, but I finally got it. Give it a try, it's fun!

Step 1: Place a bent fork over an empty shot glass. Add a sugar cube to the top and slowly pour the Absinth on top of the sugar cube.

Step 2: Light the sugar cube on fire. Try not to get the fire inside the glass, otherwise it will get very hot.

Step 3: Once the sugar is properly melted, dump it into the glass. Try to keep it on fire and try not to burn the rest of the house down. If it goes out, relight it.

Step 4: Slam your hand over the fiery glass to create a suction cup. This works best with the meaty part of your palm. The glass will stick so you can shake it up a few times.

Step 5: Pop the glass off your hand and slam it back! Bonus points for the best victory dance~

This may sound easy, but it's kind of tricky so practice at home first. The more times you do it, the better (and drunker) you'll get!

Party in the Catacombs

I'm back in Paris for Halloween and the perfect opportunity presented itself: a party in the Catacombs! It's the exact thing I've been waiting for! We get the elusive coordinates by text and hope for the best. I immediately can tell who is a part of this underground culture by the clothes they wear. It reminds me of the Burning Man vibe so I fully trust any man with a head lamp. About 50 people gather around an entrance, which is a man hole in the ground. The Police stake it out for a while so we all just wait. As soon as the Police leave, everyone takes off running and jumps down the manhole like mice running from rain. There's no time to think as we jump down the man hole too.

The intricate weaving of these underground tunnels is breath-taking. If you don't have a proper guide, you could get lost down there for weeks. We follow the pack of kids through the tiniest of crawl spaces until we discover the opening of a large hall. Decorated with lights and cobwebbs and complete with a live band, we finally arrive at the party. To be in a place with this much history, this many nooks and crannies to explore, is such a Halloween treat. We came with our bag of tricks and had a great time.

The way out is a tricky thing. You gotta have a guide and you can't expect them to leave when you want to. When we were ready to go, we simply staked out the way we came in. Eventually a group comes a long with enough street cred to trust that you can follow them. Follow them through the smoky tunnels of darkness into the unknown. When we finally burst through that manhole and got back onto the street, it was such a rush. The fresh air was never so sweet. We made it out alive!

Happy Halloween~

Lavazza Exhibition: Triennale Milan

I recently visited the Triennale museum in Milan and was blown away by the Lavazza exhibit. I stepped inside a movie theatre and was immediately struck by the dream like music that accompanied unique, somewhat sexual digital images that flew across a 3 dimensional movie screen. A coffee cup was stratigically placed throughout. What is this? I didn't know, but I knew I liked it. A few minutes later, the projection stopped and I was guided through a vagina like hole in the bottom of the screen that I didn't notice until now. I felt like Alice going down the rabbit hole.

I discovered a labyrinth of images accompanied with a story of a girl named Valerie. The images were striking, often overtly sexual and always with a coffee cup. I still had no idea what Lavazza was, but I liked it even more. What struck me most of all was the story of Valerie, an aimless 20 year old who decides to travel the world. “We don’t know if we’ll be back some day, if we’ll be stronger or any wiser. Or maybe just crazier” Characters weave in and out in classic dream fashion. "Let’s stop by the side of the road and wait for destiny to decide whether or not we deserve a traveling companion." Destiny indeed serves up the best, most interesting companions it can find.

Emotion struck me as I read the following passage. "Somebody who travels without a destination is actually standing still, and one day that person will say that the long voyage around the world has taught him that you learn more without ever leaving home." I am Valerie. And in this moment I long for home. And coffee.

"The time has come to take account. When the journey grows too long, it’s no longer a voyage: it’s an escape. Hours and hours aboard airplanes, moving from one time zone to the next, circling the world, and all in vain. The best thing to do? Strap on a parachute and merrily leap out into the open air, perhaps with a little cup of coffee in one hand." Although my journey abroad is not yet fulfilled, I know that when I do go home, it will be time. And as I finish the last row of this story mixed with photography from the most prolific photographers of my time, I feel like I have just lived a lifetime.

So what is Lavazza? What is this amazing exhibit that I wholly experienced? Lavazza is a European coffee company celebrating it's 20 year anniversery. This was one big advertisment! What a genius marketing campagin indeed. One that is amazingly artistic and actually makes you feel something. Needless to say, I got an espresso at the Triennale cafe immediately after. I enjoyed every sip as my imagination wandered onto the next stop of my own personal journey.

D'uomo

The D'uomo is a gothic cathedral in the center of Milan. It is amazingly beautiful with intricate artwork and scultpures adorning its walls. It took centuries to build and I can see why. Inside a mass is in progress, complete with the petite grey haired priest spewing out his sermon in Italian. Since I can't understand him, I join the many tourists who stick to the perimeter of the massive church. There are several mummified Popes that lay still under the ornate stain-glass windows.

Outside, the piazza is bustling with people. I'm shocked because it's a Sunday and most places in Europe shut down on the day of the Lord. But here, the shops and restaurants are thriving. A large wall in the middle of the plaza catches my attention. On it are hundreds of leaflets and signs depicting political messages. It seems to me this ancient site is a place of modern importance.

Cimiteri Cittadini-Milano

I just arrived in Milan and had an hour to kill so I just followed my feet. I found myself drawn to a large ornate building in the distance. I entered to find a massive cemetery full of magnificent sculptures and hallways full of tombstones. I noticed the coincidence that I have been exploring and thinking a lot about death lately. I don't know whether it's because Halloween is right around the corner or because I am thematically exploring the cycles of life in my work (including death and rebirth.) Whatever the reason, I enjoyed comparing the differences with these individual tombs to that of the massive grave that is the Paris Catacombs.

Many of the tombs had pictures of who lies within. I was most specifically drawn to the graves of babies, there were many one year olds that didn't make it because of the lack of proper science in the 1800s. Then there were the huge mausoleums with incredible sculptures of crying angels, fallen men and Jesus on the cross. It made me realize how money, or the lack thereof, plays a role even in death. Whoever is buried within these walls must be wealthy. Many of them happened to be named Guiseppe. I find it interesting how culture represents itself in the way we deal with the dead and in Milan, as in life, they spare no expense. 

Paris Underground

I've always had an urge to explore the underground of Paris. I've been asking all my friends about it in hopes of getting invited to a party or event down there, but no such luck. So I had to do it the tourist way by visiting the Catacombs, a large underground cemetary dating back to the 1700s. I waited for over an hour in a long line. My feet were frozen by the time it was my turn, but my enthusiasm was still strong. After descending 184 narrow, winding stairs, you walk through a small shaft that took years to chisel out in the 1700s. Immediately, you can smell death.

Over 6 million people are buried here. But they're not in coffins. Instead, their bones are stacked amongst each other in a delibrate, artistic way. I wondered whose job it was to create these walls of bones that seem to go on forever. Did they enjoy their work?

I also wondered how all the bodies were decomposed before being stacked together. I know some of the bones came from other cemetaries, allowing enough time for flesh to melt. But many people were buried here right after death. My mind wanders as I explore the caves.

I have a sudden urge to touch the bones, although it is clearly forbidden. So I skim my finger gently across a skull. Pretty smooth. Feeling a little more bold, I gently lift up a leg bone. A chill takes over my body and I realize it's best to just leave it alone. So I continue the 2km walk through the never-ending vallée du mort.

I got my fix of the Paris Underground, but I'm still going to seek out those legendary Cataphiles, the local Parisians who explore the uncharted, where no tourist has gone before.

French Wine Country

On the drive back from Switzerland to Paris we decided to take the scenic route through wine country. The forests of leaves are bursting with autumn reds and yellows, making the passing hills and valleys come alive with color. The air is clean and the villages are quiet. We made our first stop in Saint George, where we found caves full of wine, ripe for the tasting.

These classic stone cellars are like a dream, complete with a shopkeeper rambling on the wine's history in perfect French fashion. I understood some of what he was saying, I swear. After we picked up a few bottles of Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuit, we went on our merry way.

 

We stopped next in a little village with a giant castle,  Écluse. We enjoyed a magnificent five course meal inside, a gastronomical palate that satiates completely. My favorite part was the cheese cart with a dozen different kinds to choose from. We tried one of each and the garlic goat cheese went best with the local wine. This is something I could get used to! But alas, back to the city we go...

Fribourg Switzerland

Fribourg is a quaint little town in Switzerland with old world charm. We were only there for 36 hours, so once the sun peaked out we walked the streets to discover a midevil cathedral, Saint Nicholas. The stairs to the top are open through one of the towers. The never ending stairs are tight and winding. My friend couldn't even make it to the top, the narrow stairs encased in stone were too much for him. I imagined myself carrying a flame torch from the year 1200 and continued on.

And finally, after about 400 stairs, I made it to the top! The 360 sights below paint the picture of a quiet Swiss village during automn; clean, safe and full of wealth.

But what's most interesting of all is when you walk through the streets, you find modern living that blends so seamlessly into the historic fabric of the town. Restraunts, bars, cinemas, delicious bakeries with modern art cakes, and even graphetti artists remind you that you're still in the 21st Century.